2003-04-28 - 5:50 p.m.
Their Sagarmatha, my Everest. I have read enough adventure stories by authors like Krakauer, Ambrose, and Hessler to know that when men set out towards nature, those who are prepared are the ones who return unhurt.
Sagarmatha is the name local Nepalese give Mt. Everest. The name means Goddess of the Sky. Recent articles and books about the highest peak in the world seem always to imply that westerners come to conquer the mountain, while natives are wiser, recognizing its strength and respecting its awesomeness. Yesterday, I was humbled and humiliated, but not defeated.
On Sunday morning, my host brother Javlon and I set out to drive our family herd of cows, three, to the local hills for their summer grazing. Along the way we picked up Nozim, his cousin, and Nozim's family's two cows. The drive, unlike romatic ideas of cowboys and ropes, is a walk along the mountain road, about 3.5 miles, until a turn-off leading into the foothills. From this turn-off, it is another 1.5 miles to the tiny ranch house. There, two men with two blonde, barking dogs and a about fifteen cows awaited. The greatest challenge with this lazy walk is keep the cows together and off the raod as much as possible. It is also good for a laugh as cars screetch to a halt or swerve around them. This is a daily event anyway and not anything of special concern.
After delivering the cows, and gazing out over the wonderful view of plush green rolling highlands, and hills neatly groomed, so much so that from afar they looked like golf courses, I rested. Beyond these hills were rooftops of two villages, Kumushkon and Sokok. Beyond them, the snow capped mountains of Chatkal. Behind us, there also stood some mountains. A cluster of three mountains, each looming over Hisarak, my village. This group of mountains reminds me of waves of the ocean crashing into one another, with the last wave the largest. As we moved back along the trail we followed to the house, Javlon asked if I wanted to walk up the mountains. I was glad he asked because I was itching to get to the top of one of these ever since I came to Parkent in November. I agreed and we set off, following a wide road up the incline. The walk was easy, and the ranch sits half way up the smallest mountain. We stopped only to ponder at a tiny snake under a rock and again later to watch a gecko scatter away into the bushes.
Towards the top, we squatted for a snack of bread and eggs. As we ate, I noticed that the nice easy road we were on ended soon, but a quick push up this hill would get us to the top quickly. I also noticed that from the top, our view to the east, an amazing panoramic, would be blocked by the larger mountain across from us and on the other side of the valley. I tossed my shell into the bush nearby and took a swig from my Nalgene water bottle, and was excited to see that the ending of the trail did not phase my companions. We continued along the hillside. But we also did head upwards, instead we headed along the hillside, farther back into the valley and towards the largest peak. After some hiking, nothing too intense, we dipped ourselves into a small valley of stones where a mountain stream ran. Atop the hill across from us, we saw a flock of sheep grazing. The boys drank from the stream and I finish another egg. I also cooled myself in the stream, as the water was cold and the sun was hot. I also sipped some more water, leaving a nice gulp left for when the hiking got tough. We pushed onward to the top of the next hill, scattering the sheep with our footsteps. From the top of this overhang, we gathered our first clear view of what lay ahead. A steep mountain peak, capped with rocks, but otherwise easy to trek. With my boots I felt comfortable, especially considering Javlon wore golashes and Nozim's shoes had holes. We again dipped into a small valley and then made our final push. I gathered my strength, put my sweater wrapped around my waist into a small sack I carried, and took my last drink of water. We rested, then set off. As we walked, we eyed our target, a ridge of rocks with grass paths across them to the summit. Across the summit, Javlon said that a spead of highlands allowed us to continue forward back towards Hisarak. Our goal was the top. We hiked, stopping when tired, then moving on. Finally we came within a short distance of the rock ledge. My heart was thumping hard and I was hot. I stopped to rest, taking off my jeans, trying to cool myself. I happen to wear basketball shorts on underneath. I sat and rested, but the sun beat. The view was beautiful and the sheep seemed like little specks of black and white amidst green as I looked down at them. I wished I would have filled my water bottle, but I have not drank undistilled water yet and did not want to risk illness, even from the mountain stream. I gazed up at the summit. I could see it and from past hiking experience knew I just needed to rest and then put in the final kick. I focused and headed up again. The boys we just ahead of me as we reached the first set of stones. Suddenly, I was overcome. Never before hiking or exercising had I felt so exhausted. My body refused to move. My legs quivered. My mind told me to stop. Not totally light-headed, I was a bit woozy from the exertion. The boys were also winded. I told Javlon I need to stop. I sat down again, sliding behind a rock that gave a little shade. The sun was beating on us. I needed to cool down. I calmed myself a little. I was surpirsed at the suddenness of my fatigue. As I tried to rest, I also took stock of my situation. We were so secluded now. If I passed out or fainted I would be in trouble because the boys would not be able to get me down and a run for water would not be quick. I also was open to the elements, mainly the sun. Since we set out early morning, it was now just noon. I had to turn back I decided. I knew where water was and I knew it was reachable. If I was dehydrating, I needed water and/or something to eat. In my bag, which Javlon carried since I changed into my shorts, was half of a Powerbar sent from home. I sat half upset and confused, and half exhausted. I apologized to Javlon, but told him my body would not let me continue. He told me not to aplogize and that they insisted on returning with me. So we split the bar, and I began to skirt down the hill as quickly and steadily as possible. Eventually I made it back to the stream, sipped water and cooled off. We followed the river valley back to the road.
I am not a professional hiker, but I have experience enough to know what I can and cannot do. I also know that my body can go we beyond the limit my eyes set. However, yesterday I was in a world of hurt. I learned a valuable lesson and am thankful I returned safely. I also wear a deep sunburn. I am not sure what caused my shutdown. I imagine heat, lack of water, maybe poor nutrition, or intensity of the hike. Perhaps all of them combined, but I respect Hisarak's mountains more than ever. When I set out towards them again, I will do set better prepared.
